High and away in Southern Poland
Zakopane seen from the Furmanova hills
“I’m looking for a getaway destination that’s a little bit further away…” — Anonymous
The southern Polish province of Lesser Poland, beyond the capital, Kraków, is characterized by small towns set in beautiful countryside with rolling hills, and meandering rivers, and on the southern border with Slovakia, the High Tatra Mountains. This part of the country is away from the main points of interest for international visitors, yet beloved by Poles.
Zakopane, at the foot of the Tatra Mountains, is Poland’s “winter capital”, known for mountaineering, skiing, and world-class ski jumping at the summit of Gubalowka Mountain, which is served by a cable car and a funicular. First mentioned in the late 1600s, Zakopane became the regional mining center two centuries later, and then grew from a village into a climatic health resort. Over time, Zakopane developed a distinctive highland cultural character. The folk culture of the Gorale people of the Tatras has been preserved in their music, colorful local costumes, and in the characteristic "Zakopane style" of timber architecture featuring artistic carvings. The area is also known for "oscypek", a delicious smoked ewe’s milk cheese. Other typical foods include potato pancakes, goulash, and pierogi, which can be sampled in the lively cafés lining the main pedestrian street, Krupówki.
Both a train line and a bicycle path along the road or through forests connect to Nowy Targ, 21 km (13 mi) away. Meaning “new market”, the historic capital of Podhale, the Polish Highlands, is located at the confluence of the Czarney Dunajec and the Bialy Dunajec Rivers. Established before 1233, Novy Targ received city rights in 1346 from King Casimir the Great and has retained its large, attractive medieval market square to this day.
Following the Bialy Dunajec ("son of the Danube"), Poland's most beautiful mountain river, a popular cycle trip leads alongside, through a wide valley to Lake Czorsztynskie, which the river flows through, and to the town of Niedzica. There, the Berzeviczy family built the upper fortifications of the historic Dunajec Castle around 1325 to protect the northern border of Hungary. The castle retains a medieval appearance and commands a prime position overlooking lakes and countryside.
Thereafter, the Dunajec forms the border between Poland and Slovakia, flowing between mountain ranges and breaking through limestone cliffs in the Pieniny National Park. This riverside hiking/ biking stretch is equal in beauty to more famous European river routes. In Szczawnica, a town in the Grajcarek valley, a Dunajec tributary, favorable climate and acidic thermal springs led 200 years ago to the development of a spa treating respiratory and digestive illnesses. An in-town lift ferries hikers and skiers to slopes in the Pieniny mountains for year-round fun.
Leaving the Dunajec, the path leads through hilly countryside connecting to another picturesque river near the town of Rytro, the Poprad. Many bridges connect roads and bicycle paths on both banks, and fly fishermen try their luck below. The Poprad flows north to Stary Sacz, where it flows into the Dunajec. At the confluence, the charming old town, incorporated in 1257, is now a Polish historic monument with a lively weekly market held next to the main square. Reunited with the Dunajec, the path leads to Nowy Sacz, a pearl of a city that started as a medieval Royal Castle and fortifications. The remaining beautiful market square, surrounded by Renaissance and Baroque townhouses and a towered city hall, makes a fitting end to a bicycle journey.
Don’t Miss: The beautiful architecture of Zakopane and a chairlift ride up Gubalowka mountain for a view of the Tatras.
Serendipity: Needed rest stop- In the Pieniny National Park along the Dunajec River, there are many covered picnic benches for a rest and lunch.
Lunch Tip: Bicycle trip lunches are often on the go; luckily, even small towns have convenience stores to stock up on snacks.
Bedtime:
Hotel Belvedere in Zakopane, an old-style hotel in beautiful surroundings.
Hotel B&B, a modern hotel just outside the old town of Novy Targ near the station.
Hotel Lokis in Niedzica, a beautiful wooden hotel overlooking the lake, with excellent traditional food.
Hotel Pieniny Grand in Szczawnica, an elegant, modern hotel up the hill from town, serving superb international cuisine.
Perla Poludnia Hotel, above the Poprad River in the hills of Rytro, near a ski lift.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*