Walk around in Kraków’s Historic Kazimierz District
The Vistula River in Kraków separates Kazimierz from Podgórze
“…it’s nice to just get out and walk around, to see what’s there.” — Stephen Curry
The city of Kraków in the province of Lesser Poland, 297km (185mi) south of Warsaw, was the country’s capital for more than four centuries until 1595 and is officially known as the Royal Capital City of Kraków. Renowned for its Old Town, especially Wawel Royal Castle, the stunning Cloth Hall, and the 14th-century Town Hall Tower in the Main Market Square, the historic center attracts most visitors. Yet, a mere 15-minute walk from Market Square, the less-visited historical neighborhood of Kazimierz warrants equal attention.
Founded as an independent town in 1335 by King Casimir III and named after him, Kazimierz was south of the Old Town and separated by the Old Vistula River, a narrow river branch. It became an island town, had a defensive wall for 300 years, and, significantly, the only bridge across the Vistula leading to salt mines and an important trade route to Hungary. It had its own town hall on Market Square (now called Wolnica), presently housing the Ethnographic Museum, and many monumental churches, including the Corpus Christi Basilica.
In 1878, Kazimierz was united with Kraków when the river branch was filled in to create a green beltway. Autonomous until the early 19th century, the city was a place where ethnic Polish and Jewish cultures coexisted and intermingled. Especially the northeastern part of the district was the hub of Jewish life until the entire Jewish population was forcibly expelled in 1941 to the Kraków ghetto across the river in Podgórze.
Long neglected after WWII, transformation and rebirth waited until after communism fell. Today, Kazimierz is once again an important hub of cultural life, where a resurgent Jewish community commemorates the neighborhood’s past. Enticing narrow streets lead past revitalized houses and hidden courtyards to numerous squares, each with its own vibe. There’s colorful street art to notice, galleries and bookstores to poke into, pubs and clubs to experience, and outdoor cafes for relaxing and watching life go by. At the New Square, a diverse street food scene mingles with a bustling combination craft fair and flea market, all surrounding a historic round brick pavilion.
The traditional center, Szeroka Street, is more like an elongated and atmospheric square. It features Klezmer restaurants, where traditional food is accompanied by live music, the renowned Publishing House Austeria, the childhood home (now a small hotel) of famous daughter Helena Rubenstein of cosmetics fame, and a handsome red building that was used as the movie set for Schindler’s factory, though the real one is across the river. Two historic synagogues still stand on Szeroka Street: The Old Synagogue, a former Orthodox Fortress Synagogue, which is Poland’s oldest, and the Remuh Synagogue, built in 1558, that houses an ancient stone money box, and backs onto a large cemetery.
Kazimierz feels like an intimate place to walk and wander, and soak in the quiet atmosphere. That continues outside of the warren of lanes, along the Vistula River. Across the ring road, and down some steps, a long and shady promenade is frequented by walkers, joggers, and bikers. From there, sightseeing boats offer another view of the city for an hour on a cruise spanning the six bridges of Kraków. One of the bridges is a special riverside attraction, the pedestrian Father Bernatek Bridge, where sculptures of acrobats by Jerzy Kedzior hang from wires in a seemingly continuous performance.
Don’t Miss:
Leaving cozy Kazimierz to stroll along the Vistula River.
Serendipity:
Finding the Unexpected- Happening into a bookstore in a back courtyard along Szeroka Street and discovering a renowned publishing house.
Lunch Tip:
Sample street food at the booths at New Square for a favorite.
Dinner Tip:
Restaurant Ariel on Szeroka Street for a traditional Polish Jewish meal and live Klezmer music.
Bedtime:
Hotel Puro Krakow, a cool modern hotel in Kazimierz near the New Jewish cemetery
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*