Stray from the customary path to Tirolo
The village of Tirolo seen from St. Peter in Tirolo
which “One must maintain a little bit of summer, even in the middle of winter.” — Henry David Thoreau
The village of Tirolo (Dorf Tirol), situated on the Küchelberg mountain above Merano in Italy’s Alto Adige (South Tyrol) region, is surrounded by soaring natural beauty. Even in winter, when the mountaintops of the Texel Group are snow-covered, the foothills above the Etsch and Passeier Valleys can be green, and the temperatures mild due to the protective influence of four surrounding mountain ranges. The mountain air is clear in the off-season, and the hiking paths that the region is known for are still accessible yet uncrowded.
First documented in 1158, Tirolo is a lovely village full of old-world authenticity that shows off natural and cultural treasures at every turn. It’s an intimate place that leaves visitors feeling part of the family. The village’s history is closely linked to Castle Tyrol, the 11th-century dynastic residence of the Counts of Tyrol, which gave the entire region its name. This outstanding example of medieval architecture and Tyrolean history perches high on a cliffside just a 20-minute walk from the village along quiet paths. Open from March through November, the castle houses the South Tyrolean Museum of Culture and Provincial History. The buildings themselves are cultural history, featuring awe-inspiring Romanesque marble portals, Gothic frescos, and the oldest known Tyrolean stained-glass window.
Castle Tyrol isn’t the only ancient allure within walking distance. Between the village and the castle cliff lies Brunnenburg, another fortress, first built in 1240 and then repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. The poet Ezra Pound resided there from 1958-62, and his family retains ownership. From spring through fall Brunnenburg opens as a unique agricultural museum showcasing the ingenuity of Tyrolian mountain farmers in mastering life during centuries past. Beyond Castle Tyrol, the path continues to the pretty St. Peter’s Church, hugging the hillside amidst grapevines and apple trees. While it rests on the remains of two earlier Lombard-Carolingian churches, its precious Romanesque frescos stem from the early 1100s. Before heading back to Tirolo, the path goes by ancient Thurnstein Castle, now a hotel/restaurant, and a woodland waterfall.
Tirolo is an ideal starting point for further walking tours beyond viewing the castles. There are 70km (43 mi) of marked paths, all named, some themed, such as Wine, Apple, or Panorama. They range from botanical promenades in lower elevations or longer stretches along the foothills that pass vineyards, apple orchards, fields, and forests to multi-day high alpine hikes in the Texel Group Nature Park. At the village’s upper end, a 5-minute cable car ride goes to the Alta Muta (Hochmut) viewing platform and the many paths back down. At the lower end, the Tyrol Path leads gently down to Merano in the valley. Tirolo itself boasts a charming Romanesque parish church surrounded by its cemetery, a village center with shops and eateries, and the sprawling former Johanneum school on the outskirts.
The valleys and hills are covered with espaliered fruit trees as a result of Italy’s annexation of South Tyrol from Austria after WWI. That reduced northbound wine exports, so farmers turned to other fruit. Now, the flat valleys and sloped foothills are covered in apple trees, whose blossoming in April is a highlight of the area. The regional culture has become a true blend of Germanic and Italian, strongly reflected in the bilingual residents, the mix of Mediterranean and Alpine cuisines, and the ubiquitous wines.
Don’t miss:
Walking the Falknerpromenadeande and Schlossweg paths from the village to Castle Tyrol.
Serendipity:
Locals along the way- while taking photos of the surprisingly abandoned Johanneum in the village, an elderly gentleman stops and tells the story of the former school.
Lunch Tip:
Restaurant Somvino for exquisite local cuisine, also in the winter.
Bedtime:
Charming family-run, spa-like Somvita Suites on the main road in Tirolo/ Dorf Tirol with stunning views.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*