Rotterdam, the Netherlands- definitely not a Second City
View over Rotterdam from the Euormast observation platform
“…having enjoyed greatly a second blooming…” ― Agatha Christie
According to residents of Rotterdam, the Netherlands’ second largest city after Amsterdam, located in the province of South Holland: “Here you meet the world”. It is a city of surprises, a place where cutting-edge contemporary architecture meets maritime history and an industrial past. Its history goes back to the 1260s when a dam was constructed on the Rotte (meaning muddy water), a stream in the Rhein-Maas-delta. In 1340, and the city received rights from William IV Count of Holland, and soon after, a shipping canal connected to larger cities in the north, beginning international trade and urbanization. In recent years, as Europe’s largest seaport with a harbor extending 40 km (25 mi) along the Nieuwe Maas River to the Atlantic Ocean, the city has enjoyed a second blooming.
Rebuilding after near-complete destruction during WWII began in the city center on the river’s northern bank in the 1950s, deliberately making the city open and modern. Here are Europe’s first car-free shopping street Lijnbaan, the Centraal Station on Stationsplein Square, and the neighboring Groothhandelsgebow trade building. Yet northern Rotterdam retains neighborhoods of small streets lined with early 20th-century homes along quiet canals, such as Heemraadsingel. Away from the bustle, wide paths under old trees along the water flank playgrounds, picnic spots, and playful works of art like three wooden apples by Kees Franse.
The nearby Delfhaven neighborhood survived bombing and urban renewal. Originally part of Delft municipality, it had its own 1580 city hall, now housing the traditional Brewery De Pilgrim, but had no actual city rights until 1795. Part of Rotterdam since 1866, highlights include a windmill, and the Pilgrim Fathers’ Church, where those who sailed for the New World in 1620 said a last prayer. Across a bridge in The Park, laid out for the 1960 Floriade garden festival, the 185m (610ft) high Euromast, offers 360° views from the lookout platform.
One way to cross to the southern riverside is via water taxi, for example from Sint Jacobshaven, next to Deltshavn, to the Hotel New York in Holland Amerika Line’s former building at the tip of Kop van Zuid. The surrounding modern skyscrapers have given Rotterdam the nickname Manhattan on the Maas. Back to the city center, a stroll, or a bike or tram ride over the Erasmusbrug Bridge, also called the Swan, offers stunning views of the river, the city, and the North Island neighborhood. Then it’s a short way to the Maritime District, where the Maritime Museum has walking paths over the water, boatbuilding works, houseboats, and coffee shops.
In the Stadsdreihoek area, the sleek stone and glass-arched Markthal building is colorful inside, yet reminiscent of lively southern European markets. The open-air market takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays outside on Binnenrottenplein. Across the square, the bright yellow, still-occupied Cube Houses Kubuswoningen, a cool 1980s design by Piet Blom, were built as a village in the city, and one is open for visitors to appreciate the many-angled spaces. Nearby, Great St. Lawrence Church’s Gothic tower was badly damaged during the bombing of Rotterdam and now stands restored. Past the Buersplein shopping street, on the Museumstraat in Centrum, the fascinating Depot Boijmans van Beuningen is an art depot cum museum in a shiny modern building where it’s possible to watch restoration projects in process, visit the rooftop restaurant, or watch the sun set on the façade.
Don’t Miss:
Walking over the Erasmusbrug Bridge for the view and to get a sense of how northern and southern Rotterdam are connected.
Serendipity:
Locals along the way- meeting a woman in a bright pink suit on the way up the Euromast and getting a tip to visit the market.
Lunch Tip:
Hotel New York in the historic Holland America Line building for oysters or typical Dutch dishes, or later for afternoon tea.
Bedtime:
Le Petit Marin Boutique Hotel, nicely situated between Rotterdam Centraal Station and the leafy Heemraadsingel neighborhood.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*